Looking for thoughts and experiences on a "Mouse Trap" type of device

Discussion in 'Chastity device discussions and reviews' started by danleft1, Apr 8, 2017.

  1. danleft1
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    danleft1 Long term member

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    So I have tried multiple ball trap devices even MM and Stealworxx ... but I just don't care for the fit of the base ring ...so I've looked at devices like the mouse trap etc that really on a piercing to "secure them.

    My first question is what are your experiences with a tube only sitting behind the head or a tube that has bars also covering the head?

    I've printed a tube that fits me exactly and holds in place with no piercing (even through the night). I'm sure the banding from the printer helps quite a bit to provide "friction" to prevent morning wood from just pushing it off. Also having it exactly the right size for me seams to be just as important.

    So as I develop it further for me, I was looking for any input from those that have had experience with one so that maybe I can skip wasting time drawing / printing / wearing to "test" out ideas.

    A few images of the first prints that got tweaked a little more each time for the perfect fit.

    17837376_10209111848295863_1804250046_o.jpg 17837650_10209111847935854_453200154_o.jpg 17858364_10209111850775925_151241106_o.jpg
     
  2. Steve-0
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    Steve-0 Long term member

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    I'm in the same boat, currently researching ringless devices. The printed tube is a genius idea to find your fit. Wish I had one!
    My main concern is how these tubes are for uncut guys. Not sure if it will work.

    Seems that most of these devices don't have bars over the head as the sensitive spot underneath is covered anyways. Hopefully some guys with experience chime in.
     
  3. hubsub
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    hubsub a locked & happy cuck

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    I've been wearing my Ti-550 continuously for about 2 months now, and can give you my perspective. These are just some random thoughts to start with, in no particular order. Feel free to ask me specific questions:
    1. This is by a huge margin the most comfortable type of device i've ever worn.
    2. The angle at the front to accommodate the head on mine is 40˚ off vertical which feels just about right. This is less than the 45˚ the Mouse Trap uses.
    3. I wish the tube flared out just a bit at the back... or that the interior of the tube narrowed progressively from both ends. When i start to get hard there's an intense constriction at the tube ends. It's not exactly painful, but it can be uncomfortable
    4. Seems like you're getting to the right fit. You want it to be snug enough to stay on while you're completely flaccid just by friction on the skin. The pin should not hold it on... it should just prevent removal. And when in doubt, go a touch smaller.
    5. @Steve-0 : the biggest issue i can see with a foreskin is that it will have to bunch up behind the pin, which i imagine would be uncomfortable, especially as you start getting hard.
    6. I think the perfect shape for this type of device would be a slight downward curve with a beveled front (see #2) and a beveled back roughly parallel to the front, so that as one gets hard, the device would naturally tend to enforce a downward bend, discouraging the erection. Alas, this isn't really achievable through traditional machining.
    7. YMMV, but for me, the head is the least sensitive part, so it being uncovered is not a problem. Also, the device doesn't work by covering, but by constricting. I suspect it would not be a very good device if you're a "shower" instead of a "grower"
    8. Just like in any device, you absolutely can cum in it. If it's fitted properly, you won't want to tho. It is not pleasant.
    9. When I was sizing for mine, i made a series of tubes from aluminum (like you're doing with printing). I also found that the curved bar bell i was using at the time had standard fine threads (I think they were #2/24) so I drilled a small hole in the sizer tube and attached the barbell to simulate the pin for some of my overnight tests.
    I have a rough design i've been playing with off and on for a 3d-printed device that would be my next step from the -550, incorporating some of my thoughts above, but it's on the back-burner currently.
     
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  4. danleft1
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    danleft1 Long term member

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    Thank you for your input, it is greatly appreciated!

    I agree 100% about a tapper fit ... I started out with a straight tube and when i would get hard it just would bite in and was just not comfortable on the whole ... so I then moved to a slight tapper (as you said in #3), leaving the side at the head the same diameter (was the perfect fit) and just adding 2mm to the body side ... it worked great!

    I'm still playing with the angle behind the head ... I have been placing a cone shape there and removing the offset cone shape to create less of a straight line (it was quick and easy) ... but now I'm going to actually use a straight angle and then add a triangular shape on the underside of the head to fit the frenulum area perfectly. I had originally drawn it with the cone so that it was quickly adjusted in size during the fitting / learning / testing process.
     
  5. Morolinith
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    Morolinith Active member

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    I would definitely add the bars for the head like on the Tube Jacket 2. I would also round all edges, I ordered a Mousetrap 1/4 smaller then my flaccid size (ignoring the manufacturer suggestions) so no weight was on my PA, had to dremel the edges to round them.
     
  6. danleft1
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    danleft1 Long term member

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    I was not actually looking at the angle when I was drawing (mostly because the drawing program I currently using is very "generic" it is no Solid Works) ... I was looking at the drop, meaning if someone needed to measure to provide for a print it would be easier to ask them for a drop measurement then and angle ... so I started at a 15mm drop and then was at a 17mm drop (26 degrees) and I just increased to a 20 mm drop (30 degrees) ... again I think if you are ever going to produce for someone and need measurements it will be easier to have a drop measurement ... but it would be funny to watch someone try to measure the angle of the head of their penis as related to the shaft.
     
  7. danleft1
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    danleft1 Long term member

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    Rounded edges are a MOST, I not only filet the edges in the drawing / print, but also sand them lightly.

    I'm not sold on bars for the head ... I've been wearing my latest print for 48 hours (no piercing) and it has stayed right where it belongs even through nighttime erections / showering / daily life and the comfort is amazing compared to all the ball trap devices ... so I'm not convinced adding weight and more areas that could possibly pinch skin serves any purpose other then visual (don't get me wrong visual is important also, just not needed yet)
     
  8. Peter Rabbit
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    Peter Rabbit I'm her bunny

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    MaleChastityNow.com does sell the MouseTrap at a reasonable price. You could use the jewelry-grade PA hook he makes with your 3D printed tube. Perhaps he'd make a PA hook only. He's good and industrious, and I recommend supporting his shop. I ended up getting a custom-sized MouseTrap that had slightly thicker walls - it allowed him to round over the edges. I found a thin edge can be uncomfortable as things bend and fold and press into skin. It was slightly heavier but the critical dimensioning of the ID made it rest very well, without issue. One can buy Titanium tubes from TitaniumJoe, but I haven't tried that project yet.

    3D printing / additive manufacturing is a lot of fun and exciting. Unfortunately, I find plastic irritates my sensitive skin.

    I switched to the Glans Armor, which is lighter and easier to clean. I found a large amount of dried pre-cum and such within the tube when I wore the MouseTrap. So the rounder edge in the back and the open design helps me.

    Regarding preventing orgasms. It's my experience that you can orgasm in anything - I've spurted and spilled wearing a KTB once, and just a from a ball crusher once. Even in a Steelworxx Steelheart. Fun? No. But it's disappointing. For whatever emotional reason I've never once cheated in my Contender or Glans Armor. Perhaps its because it's more open.

    Good luck to you, I like what I see!
     
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  9. Minas bitch
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    Minas bitch Long term member

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    I found bars on the head really helped with not pinching. If you add a ring smaller then the tube at the angle behind the corona then the head will hold the weight ( along with being snug in the shaft.) Also for pinching purposes a flared base or a wider ring on the base will help with pinching. Once you happy with the design send it out to print in titanium and your good to go!
     
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