Mods I have made to my CB-6K to make it more wearable and to prevent pullout.
http://www.chastitymansion.com/forum/album.php?albumid=536
I cut out a wedge of the tube with a band saw, cutting about 1/8 of an inch off the tube on the bottom side and almost none on the top side. After sanding on a flat surface, I then glued the pieces back together with some crazy glue. Once that was dry, I went at it with clear PVC cement - the type used to join the white plumbing tubes. This stuff drys slow and is able to be sanded.
This made the fit better, with less sticking out in cloths. My wife did not realize I had it on for several days. The tube presses down on the testicles a little more, but that is not an issue for me.
The next mod I made was a line to allow the lock to be on the side guide pin. I took apart a metal electrical plug (fro the local electronics store). and ground down the main piece - it is a tube with a shoulder on the end that will not slide through the lock hole of the main pin. I had to ground on side of the shoulder flat as it sits on the front face of the 6k. Through this I tied two nylon strings, knotting the one end so it would not pull through the tube and unraveling the far end to join and melt that end together so it can get through the lockpin hole. That far end is opened and put in the lock that is now attached to the guidepin. With the lock on the side, the big front bulge is gone.
A side view kind of looks like this- where the == is two lines, knotted at the end @, and melted together at the far end ---. the |____ is the top of the round tube, and the ____ is the bottom - this is a cut away view.
|_______
@=================================------
________
For the pullout fix, I cut a longer then usual O-ring, and used nylon thread to tie the nylon strings onto the ends. I used several double constrictor knots (aka double strangle knot) tied with nylon thread, to attach the nylon rope to the O-ring ends. I also had melted the end of the nylon string so that it was just slightly bigger then the line (adds friction). I then whipped the nylon rope around the O-ring using nylon thread to add more strength. Then I wrapped teflon plumbing tape around the knots to make it smooth, and use the nylon thread to finish tie that off.
I then drilled two holes in the tube, underneath near the front of the tube, and pulled the nylon rope through the holes.
The O-ring is looped around the head of the penis, as the penis retracts, the O-ring tightens. This prevents pull back.
Without this mod, any O-ring loose enough to not cut off blood when erect would fall off when limp.
The strings ends have loops tied in them (and melted to prevent untying) and are then pulled over to the lock.
This represents the 'getting close' stage. Another slight mod is needed to the O-ring line - where the O-ring crosses underneath the head of the penis, the skin can pinch now and then. I plan on wrapping the two lines in a soft tube of some sort to prevent that. Some surgical tape may be the short term fix I think.
http://www.chastitymansion.com/forum/album.php?albumid=536
I cut out a wedge of the tube with a band saw, cutting about 1/8 of an inch off the tube on the bottom side and almost none on the top side. After sanding on a flat surface, I then glued the pieces back together with some crazy glue. Once that was dry, I went at it with clear PVC cement - the type used to join the white plumbing tubes. This stuff drys slow and is able to be sanded.
This made the fit better, with less sticking out in cloths. My wife did not realize I had it on for several days. The tube presses down on the testicles a little more, but that is not an issue for me.
The next mod I made was a line to allow the lock to be on the side guide pin. I took apart a metal electrical plug (fro the local electronics store). and ground down the main piece - it is a tube with a shoulder on the end that will not slide through the lock hole of the main pin. I had to ground on side of the shoulder flat as it sits on the front face of the 6k. Through this I tied two nylon strings, knotting the one end so it would not pull through the tube and unraveling the far end to join and melt that end together so it can get through the lockpin hole. That far end is opened and put in the lock that is now attached to the guidepin. With the lock on the side, the big front bulge is gone.
A side view kind of looks like this- where the == is two lines, knotted at the end @, and melted together at the far end ---. the |____ is the top of the round tube, and the ____ is the bottom - this is a cut away view.
|_______
@=================================------
________
For the pullout fix, I cut a longer then usual O-ring, and used nylon thread to tie the nylon strings onto the ends. I used several double constrictor knots (aka double strangle knot) tied with nylon thread, to attach the nylon rope to the O-ring ends. I also had melted the end of the nylon string so that it was just slightly bigger then the line (adds friction). I then whipped the nylon rope around the O-ring using nylon thread to add more strength. Then I wrapped teflon plumbing tape around the knots to make it smooth, and use the nylon thread to finish tie that off.
I then drilled two holes in the tube, underneath near the front of the tube, and pulled the nylon rope through the holes.
The O-ring is looped around the head of the penis, as the penis retracts, the O-ring tightens. This prevents pull back.
Without this mod, any O-ring loose enough to not cut off blood when erect would fall off when limp.
The strings ends have loops tied in them (and melted to prevent untying) and are then pulled over to the lock.
This represents the 'getting close' stage. Another slight mod is needed to the O-ring line - where the O-ring crosses underneath the head of the penis, the skin can pinch now and then. I plan on wrapping the two lines in a soft tube of some sort to prevent that. Some surgical tape may be the short term fix I think.
