Okay, I think I'm mostly done. Firstly, I'll link you all to the album.. so you can see what I'm talking about.
http://www.chastitymansion.com/forum/album.php?albumid=433
I've managed to complete this for about $140 Australian. But thats because my neighbour works for Bluescope and just happened to bring home a car load full of these 2m long stainless steel sheets one day. I've had it sitting in my shed ever since wondering what I can do with it. The only detail of the belt that can't be seen in the pictures is the width. I made it 30mm wide, but that varies at the hips where some had to be ground out with the angle grinder. So thats the summary complete, full details below.
You will need at the very least,
- enough 1mm thick stainless steel sheet to go around you waist and then some.
- good power drill
- 1x 5/18 (I think.. ~4.5mm) Cobalt tipped drill bit.
- angle grinder (mines only 100mm)
- 2x 1mm thick stainless steel cutting discs for the grinder
- 1x grinding disc for metals.
- couple of pairs of pliers
- 80 grit sand paper
- 240 grit sand paper
- 1/2 round 1st cut file
- finishing file
- some PVC housing to suit your penis (measure the circumference, work out the diameter)
- mounted stone bits
- 2 part epoxy adhesive
- small padlock
- permanent marker
- rag and rubbing alcohol or eucalyptus oil
To create the penis tube, you need a couple of shapes.. at the top you need a wide open curve to match your pelvis. at the bottom, its up to you. I put these lines on by putting the tube on using the stocking trick, and then holding it close to my body and drawing on the shapes.
In my case I later found that I had to make a bigger tube, and made the second one out of two 45 degree elbow connectors for PCV plumbing. This sort of thing should be available at any hardware store (yay bunnings).
Then you need to use the mounted stones to grind out the general shape.. then use the 80 and 240 grit papers to smooth off the edges. While you're sanding, remember that it is going to be on your DICK, so it better be smooth!
To make the waist belt.
Lie the Stainless steel (SS) sheet flat out on a table. Mark off the length you need, plus a bit, because we will need to bend that extra bit out later for the lock to go through. I found the texta worked well for marking. I measured the length out, marked it. Then I measured to the centre and marked.. this was to be the middle of my back. From there I measured my body (out from back to each hip) I marked approximate positions, and then bent the sheet a little and held it up to check. MEASURE ALOT. its easier to check and check and check than to start again.
Once i Had the positions of the back, zenith and pelvic side of my hips marked (as lines), I measured up 30 mm from the bottom edge of the sheet and put a line. Then used a bucket as a guide to get some curves for the hips. Then I began the real work. Cutting out any excess I could get at with the angle grinder, then grinding back the swarf from the cut. Then filing with the 1/2 round.. then filing again.. then again.. etc until it was a nice rounded edge that wasn't going to cut me open.
Finally the tabs for the lock had to be bent out. They have to be ground down to about 1/2 the size of the rest of the belt, so that the front plate has a part that will go above and below the locktabs to stop you lifting it off. Hopefully the pics will show this as its a little hard to explain. I bent the tabs out, cut them down to about 1/2 the size and spent another hour playing with files.
The front plate.
I put the belt on and the penis tube. I sat down and measured the top of the belt, to the lowest point i wanted the steel to contact the tube. I went out and marked a plate (wider at the top so that it is stiff and able to hold things back eg: stiffies!). Again, cut out all the excess with the angle grinder and grind/file back until its safe to touch. I drilled the slot with a 2.5mm HSS drill bit, which is probably rooted now, but it was cheap anyway, by drilling a series of holes and then linking them up by dragging the drill bit back through each hole (NOTE: this is extremely bad practice. the drill bit could break and hit you).
I then matched the plate up to the belt to check the length down to the tube would be ok. It was a little long, so I took a fraction off one end until it matched. I used a couple of pairs of pliers to put a curve in the plate that matched up to the penis tubes curve and then glued it with the epoxy.
So that pretty much covers most of it. I then cleaned it up with a bit of polishing compound and put some heatshrink over the lock to keep it from rattling and that was it. I'm wearing it as I write this and it is very comfy.
Pros:
- lead time in hrs, not months
- Stainless steel construction
- definitely secure from sex. haven't tried it for masturbation yet, I hope it stops orgasm, but i don't want to try and be disappointed in all that work!
- undetectable under clothes (unless some gives you a really intimate hug)
Cons
- not as good looking as the real thing
- bloody hard work. I've been working 2-3 hrs a night after a full day at work on this for 5 days!
- requires a reasonable amount of skill in metal working, and a few of the tools can be expensive if you don't already have them.
Please feel free to ask any questions. i'll do my best to answer them.
Thanks everyone.
arty-075:
